Saturday, April 30, 2011

"Follow our blog" sale starts tomorrow!

Our first ONE week only "follow our blog" sale begins in our etsy shop, Paper Doll Girls,TOMORROW, so all you have to do is sign up to follow our blog.  You'll find the "follow me" button on the right hand side of our blog.

After you've done that, all you need to do is include the following code at checkout when you buy TWO or more items and you can save 25%.

Coupon code :  BLOGFOLLOWERSALE25 

Remember, the sale ends on Sunday, May 8th!



Seeing Spots

There are two things that never fail to make me feel happy and smiley--the color RED and POLKA DOTS.  Who couldn't help but feel uplifted by those two, especially when they're combined!
Jean Desses One Shoulder Evening Dress  
L'OFFICIEL DE LA COUTURE ET DE LA MODE DE PARIS 
March 1955 

Jean Dessès (6 August 1904 – 2 August 1970), was a world leading fashion designer in the 1940s, 1950s and 1960s. His designs reflected the influences of his travels, specializing in creating draped evening gowns in chiffon and mousseline, based on early Greek and Egyptian robes.

His work was influenced by his travels, creating draped evening gowns in chiffon, embroidered dresses, sheath dresses with tight jackets and flowing skirts. His fashion was very popular with European royalty and movie stars. Among his clientele were the Queen and royal princesses of Greece, the Duchess of Windsor, Madame Jean (Lilia) Ralli, the first Mrs. Aristotle Onassis and society hostess Elsa Maxwell. In 1962, he designed the wedding gown worn by Princess Sophia of Greece (later Queen Sofia of Spain) for her marriage to the future King Juan Carlos of Spain. Valentino worked with Desses for several years in the 1950s and gained much hands-on experience, as did Guy Laroche, who in the 1950s was Desses' assistant.
Jeanne Lanvin Castillo Silk Taffeta Cocktail Dress
L'OFFICIEL DE LA COUTURE ET DE LA MODE DE PARIS 
March 1955 

Jeanne-Marie Lanvin (January 1867, Paris – 6 July 1946, Paris) was a French fashion designer and the founder of the Lanvin fashion house.

One of the most influential designers of the 1920s and '30s, Jeanne Lanvin's skillful use of intricate trimmings, virtuoso embroideries and beaded decorations in clear, light, floral colors became a Lanvin trademark. When Lanvin died in 1946, ownership of the firm was naturally ceded to the designer's daughter, Marguerite di Pietro.
Adele Simpson Two Piece Copper Polka Dot Two-Piece Suit
Harpers Bazaar
April 1952

Adele Smithline Simpson was born in New York, USA, in 1903. She studied at the Pratt Institute of Design, in Brooklyn, New York. She was married to Herbert Sondheim. In her 20's, she was reputedly one of the highest paid designers in America. In 1927, she was appointed head designer at Ben Gershel's, a ready-to-wear company. She then moved to Mary Lee Fashions, where she designed under her own name. 

Subsequently she bought out this business in 1944, changing the name to Adele Simpson Inc. She designed jewellery for a short period in the 1950's which is now much sought after at vintage jewellery stores.  In 1964 the company made Givenchy's special collection for Bloomingdales Store in New York. Simpson designed practical clothes, outfits which could be worn in layers and discarded to reveal evening wear under day wear.
 
Her blouse and suit, dress and jacket or coat and suit ensembles were extremely popular, especially with the wives of US politicians. Mrs Eisenhower and Mrs Jimmy Carter, along with many other First Ladies, were among her clientele.
She was the first American designer to treat cotton as a serious fashion fabric, using it for day dresses as well as full-skirted evening gowns. In the 1950's, she produced a cotton Chemise Dress with belts attached, which could be tied at the front or back.  The dresses which Adele Simpson made are still treasured and snapped up when they appear on vintage sale.
 

Friday, April 29, 2011

Sunny Hartnett

My favorite model of the 1950s is Sunny Hartnett.   As a blonde in a sea of dark-haired models, she really stood out.  I think she was an absolutely gorgeous woman.  Her name is so fitting for the lightness she radiated in her photos.  Here are a few of my favorites from my etsy shop:

 Vogue USA 
January 1, 1956

 Vogue USA
January 1, 1956

Vogue USA
March 1, 1956

She was born in New York in 1924, and given the name of Annemarie Margot Harnett. She had a very successful modeling career throughout the 1950s and upon retiring, became an assistant to Eileen Ford of Ford Models.  This photograph of her wearing a Madame Gres gown was taken by Richard Avedon in 1954 and is an absolute icon:





Thursday, April 28, 2011

Blog Follower ONLY Sale

We're having our very first BLOG FOLLOWER ONLY sale in our etsy shop starting this Sunday, May 1st and ending on May 7th.

All you have to do is sign up to follow our blog, buy TWO OR MORE vintage ads from the shop, use the coupon code below at checkout and you'll get 25% off your purchase!  Easy-peazy!

BLOGFOLLOWERSALE25


Wednesday, April 27, 2011

I'm Green With Envy

I just listed some wonderful fashion illustrations today from a 1951-1952 French magazine, L'Art et la Mode, and I really am green with envy over these clothes.  The illustrations were done by Bernard Blossac and Durani.

Paquin & Nina Ricci Cocktail Dresses
L'Art et la Mode
Winter 1951-1952
 
 Jacques Fath Wool Coat & Hat
L'Art et la Mode
Winter 1951-1952

 Balenciaga Evening Dress & Evening Coat
L'Art et la Mode
Winter 1951-1952


Pierre Balmain & Jean Patou Evening Dresses
L'Art et la Mode
Winter 1951-1952

Bernard de la Bourdonnaie-Blossac was born in Neuilly-sur-Seine in 1917 and studied at great length in various art academies including “Collard” and “La Grande Chaumière” and in the atelier of Paul Colin before the fashion designer Robert Piguet discovered him.  He soon started publishing drawings in Vogue, L’Officiel, L’Art et la Mode, Harper’s Bazaar and International Textiles. His postwar drawings conveyed a sense of aristocratic elegance and he was a wonderful painter of mundane Parisian life.

Tuesday, April 26, 2011

Oh, My Aching Feet

I love the high heel shoes of the 1940's!  Take a look at some of the gorgeous high heels that were for sale in the UK just after the war. I especially love the ones with the ankle straps.  I don't think that high heels today have anything on these lovely shoes!

Red Cross Shoes
Harpers Bazaar
October 1949

Lilley & Skinner
Harpers Bazaar UK
December 1947

Lilly & Skinner
Harpers Bazaar
December 1946

Lilly & Skinner
Harpers Bazaar
September 1948

 Van-Dal Shoes
Harpers Bazaar 
September 1948


Come by and check out the shop for these beauties and even more!

Monday, April 25, 2011

What's featured in my Etsy shop this week?

These are the four vintage ads I've chosen to feature in my etsy shop this week.  I decided to go with a "blue" theme:

 Hardy Amies Blue & White Striped Cotton Evening Dress
Harpers Bazaar UK
March 1947
Etsy Listing #72786157

Sir Edwin Hardy Amies,(17 July 1909 - 5 March 2003), was a British fashion designer, best known for being the dress designer for HM Queen Elizabeth II.   

In 1946 he established his own couture fashion house business, Hardy Amies Ltd, after buying the bombed out shell of a house that was №14 Savile Row. Although Savile Row is the home of English bespoke tailoring, the Hardy Amies brand developed to become known for its classic and beautifully tailored clothes for both men and women.  

 Simon Massey Coat Dress
Harpers Bazaar UK
September 1947

 Wetherall Waterproof Fine Woollen Coat
Harpers Bazaar UK
January 1949

 Edwards & Holms Black High Heel Shoes
Harpers Bazaar UK
August 1948

Stop by the shop and check out the 150+ ads I've listed so far this long holiday weekend!  And, there's even more to come the next couple of days.

Sunday, April 24, 2011

World War II Clothing Coupons

Today I started listing vintage magazine advertisements dating from 1947 in my Etsy shop .  I noticed that although World War II was over, clothing rationing was still in effect two years after the war ended in the UK.  Several of the ads gave the number of "coupons" it took to allow purchase of the item.  Here are four as an illustration:

 Rayne Shoe Company
Harpers Bazaar UK
October 1947
Etsy Listing #72763796

 Simpson Buckle Blouse
Harpers Bazaar UK
October 1947
Etsy Listing # 72765982

 Ballantyne Cashemere Sweater
Harpers Bazaar UK
October 1947
Etsy Listing #72766233

 Harrods By-the-Sea Outfits
Harpers Bazaar UK
June 1947
Etsy Listing #72811472


Due to the shortages induced by World War II, women had to use coupons to buy new clothes, cloth, footwear or knitting wool. These government-issued coupons were handed out at the beginning of the year and had to last until the end of the year. In 1941, women were given 66 coupons to use. By 1945, that number had dropped to 36 coupons a year. The government created rules for coupon use. For example, coupons could only be detached from the coupon book during the time of sale. Despite the coupons, some women were still too poor to afford new clothes.




Saturday, April 23, 2011

Pauline Trigere

Here are just a couple more of the ads I will start listing in our etsy shop tomorrow.  Check out the shop the next few days for 300+ new listings!

 Harper's Bazaar
October 1949
Pauline Trigere for Julliard

 Harper's Bazaar
October 1949
Pauline Trigere Coat

Pauline Trigère (1909–2002) was a French-born American fashion designer, known for her crisp, tailored cuts and innovative ideas.

The daughter of a tailor, Trigère was able to operate a sewing machine by age 10 and often assisted her dressmaker mother. Shortly after leaving school, Pauline was employed as a trainee cutter at Martial et Armand in the Place Vendôme, Paris. While there, she met American designer Adele Simpson, who told her about the wonders of the New York fashion world. In 1937, aged 25, she moved to New York where she first found work at Ben Gerschel and later became assistant designer at Hattie Carnegie.

In 1942, Trigère decided to open her own fashion house, which was managed by her brother Robert Trigère. Her first small collection of 12 dresses was taken to department store buyers all across the country and by 1945, Trigère was a respected New York label. She received her first Coty Award in 1952. In the 1950s she started to produce costume jewelry to accompany her outfits, like many other fashion houses at the time. Her clientele included many famous women such as the Duchess of Windsor, actress Claudette Colbert and singer Lena Horne. Trigère is also cited for designing Patricia Neal's sophisticated wardrobe in Breakfast at Tiffany's, although other sources credit Edith Head with Neal's wardrobe in the film.

Today, Trigère's vintage dresses and jewelry are greatly sought-after and have been worn recently by the likes of Winona Ryder.



Friday, April 22, 2011

Elsa Schiaparelli and Marcel Vertes--a perfect combination

One of my favorite illustrators is Marcel Vertes, and I especially love his work for Schiaparelli perfumes.  Here are three of his ads that you will find in our shop:

  Harpers Bazaar
September 1945
Etsy Listing #70216138

Harpers Bazaar 
April 1945
Etsy Listing #70216224

 Vogue
April 1952
Etsy Listing # 71019728

Hungarian illustrator,  Marcel Vertes was born in Ujpest, near Budapest, Hungary.  He studied to become an aviation engineer, but instead turned to drawing and painting.  In the early 1920s, Vertes went to Paris, where he worked for the satirical magazine Rire, and for the Gazette Du Bon Ton.

Vertes was an outstanding painter, printmaker, illustrator and fashion designer.  His work was characterized by its economical use of line and color.  He moved to Paris during World War I, and established himself as one of the most important artistic figures of the 1920s; following the footsteps of Toulouse-Lautrec, Boutet, and Forain.  His work consisted mainly of portrayals and scenes of Paris street life, women, the circus, and cabaret acts.  Vertes went to school at the Academie Julian in Paris.
 
He became popular in France since the mid 1920s particularly for his lithographs, and illustrations.

Due to the impending World War II, Verte traveled to America where he lived and worked for some time.  His reputation as a great artist got him work as a book illustrator and costume and set designer for films, theater and musicals.  He worked briefly for Vanity Fair and Harper's Bazaar in New York before traveling to London to illustrate for Schiaparelli perfumes.  The collaboration between Vertes and Schiaparelli was an inspired one.  Verte's whimsical, and modern illustrations perfectly complimented Elsa Schiaparelli's avant-garde style and irreverent attitude.


Thursday, April 21, 2011

Shoes, shoes and more shoes!

I've just started putting together the new ads I'll be listing this weekend and I thought I'd give you a preview of some wonderful British shoes from 1946-1948.  Come check out our shop to see these and more.  Enjoy!  


 Edwards & Holmes Ltd.
August 1948

Lilley & Skinner
December 1946

Lotus Shoes
December 1946

Lilley & Skinner
January-February 1948

Wednesday, April 20, 2011

Furs -- A Major Fashion Accessory of the 1950s

Wearing fur is now a no-no, but up until recent years, women in furs were the epitome of elegance.   I am always dazzled by how beautiful women looked in the ads of the 1950s bundled up in their gorgeous fur coats.  Let's face it--furs were a MAJOR fashion accessory of the women in upmarket magazines like Vogue and Harper's Bazaar.   These are some of my favorites:
L'OFFICIEL DE LA COUTURE ET DE LA MODE DE PARIS
October 1954
Etsy Listing #70649868

 VOGUE
August 1, 1951
Etsy Listing #70543368


 L'OFFICIEL DE LA COUTURE ET DE LA MODE DE PARIS
March 1959
Etsy #69029938

 Vogue 
December 1955
Etsy Listing #70397085





Tuesday, April 19, 2011

Easter Long Weekend Coming Up.....

I just wanted to let everyone know that I'll be spending six whole days holiday over the long Easter/Anzac Day weekend starting Thursday night listing the most gorgeous ads from Harpers Bazaar UK 1947-1949.  I PROMISE you, you will absolutely love the fashion illustrations in these ads--Gruau, Demachy, Vertes, Bouche, etc!  

I'm starting to work on getting them ready now, so I'm afraid there won't be any "eye candy" blogged about tonight!  

Please stop by the shop, though, during the weekend and early next week and see what's on offer.  Don't forget, we're having a "Buy 4 Get the 5th one Free" sale until April 27th.

Monday, April 18, 2011

Vogue 1939 Magazine Advertisement Fashion Illustration by RENE BOUET-WILLAUMEZ Crepe and Sheer Jersey Evening Dresses Bonwit Teller I Magnin

Crepe and Sheer Jersey Evening Dreses
Illustration by Rene Bouet-Willaumez (RBW)
Vogue
May 15, 1939
Etsy Listing #70379182

French fashion illustrator Rene Bouet-Willaumez was born in Brittany, France in 1900. In 1929 he started working for the French edition of Vogue. He worked with Vogue for three decades, until the end of his career. His work was soft and fluid, usually pen andink drawings of fashions, and fashionable women; aesthetically pleasing yet realistic and informative.

His name is associated with one of the most beautiful periods in fashion illustration.  Bouet-Willaumez's work was influenced by that of Eric's.  He refined his own style through a daring use of colors, brisk clear designs and masterful shading.  His illustrations had a dramatic sense of style and commanded space in the pages of Vogue for many years. He died in France in 1979, at the age of seventy-nine years old.

Bags by Josef 1945

Handbags by Josef
Harpers Bazaar 
April 1945
Etsy Listing #70915691

 Bags by Josef produced a wide variety of bags from leather to fabric to exquisite beaded bags. In the 50s' they often held the front cover illustration on the trade journal "Handbags & Accessories" by Haire Publications.

Sunday, April 17, 2011

It's My Birthday SALE!!

Because it's my birthday, we're having a sale in the shop.  Buy FOUR vintage magazine ads and you'll get the FIFTH one FREE.  Stop by the shop, choose four ads and just leave me a note when you go through checkout letting me know which ad you'd like me to include in with your four purchases.  Pop in the listing title and listing number and you'll get it for free!

The sale offer is good until April 27th.

Troylings Styled by Seymour Troy Lown Shoes High Heels 1954

Troylings Laminated High Heel Shoes
Vogue USA
September 1, 1954
Etsy #72318714

Martinique Custom Made Footwear 1954

Martinique Custom Made Footwear
Vogue USA
September 1, 1954
Etsy Listing #72318977

Saturday, April 16, 2011

John Cavanagh 1956 Paper Taffeta Evening Dress Illustrated by Rene Bouche

John Cavanagh Paper Taffeta Evening Dress
UK Vogue
November 1956
Etsy #71291823

Very little detail is known about Rene Bouche himself.  Born in Europe in 1906, he arrived at what would be his "bread and butter" career at age 33, when he persuaded the editors of the French-edition of Vogue to allow him to contribute sketches of the latest fashions.  His work appeared in both the French and British versions of the magazine, and he produced one of the prettiest covers of the year, showing a milliner's shop full of the summer's bows and flowers, ribbons and laces, straws and tulles. 

It was that spring of 1941 that Bouche's career effectively began.  Almost immediately he made a considerable "second impression" on Vogue's New York editors, and he quickly became a regular contributor to the magazine.  His work was almost exclusively black-and-white sketches, with a few full-color pieces offered up when the assignment or subject-matter warranted. Stylistically, his sketches often resembled what one critic called "frantic calligraphy," yet their mood was always soft and gentle.

Mad Carpentier 1954 French Haute Couture Assymetrical Collar Cocktail Dress

Mad Carpentier Assymetrical Collar Cocktail Dress
L'Officiel de La Couture et de la Mode de Paris
October 1954
Etsy Listing #70544942

The firm's two partners—Mad Maltezos and Suzie Carpentier— banded together when Madeleine Vionnet, their former employer, closed in 1939.

The two women represented a continuation of Vionnet's bias cut and elegance in fashion combined with a discreet social model, always proper. Twins seized from a most inspired rib, two women balanced to equal one, and perseverance through the war years established an interesting mystique around Mad Carpentier. As Mary Brooks Picken and Dora Loues Miller, authors of Dressmakers of France: The Who, How, and Why of the French Couture (New York, 1956) passionately enthused, "When it was almost impossible to think of luxury, of the richness of colors, of the beauty of fabrics, in a city without joy and without light…these two talented women carried on."



Friday, April 15, 2011

1935 Lucien LeLong's "Opening Night" Perfume

Lucien LeLong "Opening Night" Perfume
Harpers Bazaar
June 1935
Etsy Listing #66801722
Half Page Ad

Opening Night was first registered (trademarked) by Lucien Lelong in 1934. Although its history is murky, it appears to have been introduced in France under the name La Premieère in 1935 or possibly a year or two later. It has appeared in bottles of various different shapes (Lelong loved and collected glass and often tried a number of bottles for the same fragrance.)

This pyramid design for Opening Night is among the nicer Lucien Lelong bottles.






Schiaparelli Bengale Chiffon Evening Dress Illustrated by Reynaldo Luza

Schiaparelli Bengale Chiffon Evening Dress
Illustrated by Reynaldo Luza
Harpers Bazaar
June 1935
Etsy Listing #66900928

Elsa Schiaparelli, the flamboyant fashion designer of the Art Deco period, is renowned for her fabulous eccentricity and innovation. She changed fashion and people's attitudes to it with her scandalous dresses and colourful personality. Her legacy of spectacular designs and an entirely innovative approach to fashion design has moulded contemporary fashion and inspired countless fashion designers, including Galliano, McQueen, Gaultier and Yves Saint Laurent. In short, Elsa Schiaparelli was the woman who shaped fashion as we know it today - creating the pattern for all dresses to come.

Reynaldo Luza (1893-1978), pre-eminent fashion artist, was born in Lima, Peru. He began training as an architect at the University of Louvain, Belgium, but returned to Peru at the outbreak of World War I, where he changed his studies from architecture to art. In 1918 he came to the United States, where he earned his living by contributing drawings to several fashion publications, principally VOGUE, HARPERS BAZAAR, and VANITY FAIR. In 1921 he joined HARPERS BAZAAR as the principal fashion artist, a position he was to hold for 27 years. He divided his time between New York, Paris and London, working closely with all of the leading fashion designers of the times--Poiret, Patou, Lelong, Paquin, Douillet, Doucet, Cheruit, Worth, Drecoll, Callot Soeurs, Redfern, Martial et Amand, Premet, Reboux, Chanel, Vionnet, Molyneaux, Schiaparelli, Hartnell, Steibel, and Balenciaga, among others. In 1940 Luza made New York his principal base, where, over the next few years, he continued his activities at Harpers as well as creating fabric and furniture designs, and the costumes for the movie "The Bridge of San Luis Rey".


Thursday, April 14, 2011

1930s girl with a big red hat and sunglasses

Girl with Big Red Hat and Sunglasses
Harpers Bazaar 
June 1935
Etsy Listing #64225470

 A hat big as a parasol of very rough straw, with a white tassle dripping over one side and white cords to tie securely under your chin or under your wavy locks.  Marvelous for the beach because it shades even the tip of your nose and (because of an efficient cord) can't possibly manage to blow off. 

L. T. Piver French Rouge, Lipstick and Foundation

L.T. Piver
French Elle
1956
Etsy Listing #69738882

Wednesday, April 13, 2011

1940s Bergdorf Goodman Surah Slack and Blouse Illustrated by Rene Bouet-Willaumez (RBW)

Bergdorf Goodman
Vogue USA
February 15, 1940
Etsy Listing #70377551

French fashion illustrator Rene Bouet-Willaumez was born in Brittany, France in 1900. In 1929 he started working for the French edition of Vogue. He worked with Vogue for three decades, until the end of his career. His work was soft and fluid, usually pen and ink drawings of fashions, and fashionable women; aesthetically pleasing yet realistic and informative.

His name is associated with one of the most beautiful periods in fashion illustration.  Bouet-Willaumez's work was influenced by that of Eric's.  He refined his own style through a daring use of colors, brisk clear designs and masterful shading.  His illustrations had a dramatic sense of style and commanded space in the pages of Vogue for many years. He died in France in 1979, at the age of seventy-nine years old.




1940s Saks Fifth Avenue Three Piece Suit and Cape Fashion Illustration by Rene Bouet-Willaumez (RBW)

Saks Fifth Avenue
Three Piece Suit and Cape
Vogue USA
  February 15, 1940
Etsy Listing #70376724


Tuesday, April 12, 2011

What can I do with my Paper Doll Girls?


One of my lovely customers sent me this magazine photo to show me her inspiration for buying fashion illustrations from our shop.  Great idea!
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