Showing posts with label l'officiel de la couture et de la mode de paris. Show all posts
Showing posts with label l'officiel de la couture et de la mode de paris. Show all posts

Saturday, January 21, 2012

La Femme Chez Elle

Amongst the vintage fashion magazine ads that I brought back from Paris, I found some lovely illustrations by four well-known Art Deco illustrators of the 1930s.  

Perhaps the most iconic of these illustrators was Paul Iribe,
who was part of a Parisian, bohemian clique, a cosmopolitan mix of personalities from the world of the arts and elite society.  One notable member was the couturier, Coco Chanel.  Iribe’s involvement with Chanel was particularly intense. Chanel found Iribe’s provocative wit and professional drive matched her own. Theirs was a romantic liaison, and a bond of like souls. 


   Etsy Listing #90914676

The reverse side of this listing is an illustration by Andre Edouard Marty.  He was the quintessential Parisian artist: he was born in that city in 1882, died there in 1974, and through his long and productive 92 years he touched upon virtually every major art form with the exception of sculpture.   He was only one of four artists to contribute to every year of the elite pochoir fashion publication Gazette du Bon Ton (1912 to 1925).  In addition he was much sought after as an illustrator for Vogue, Harper’s Bazaar, Le Sourire, Fémina, Modes et Manières d’Aujord’hui and many other popular fashion and lifestyle publications.

   Etsy Listing #90914676

George Lapape was also the quintessential Parisian artist.  At age 20 Lepape had already formed strong liaisons with such notable artists as Georges Braque, Marie Laurencin, Bernard Boutet de Monval, Andre Marty and Charles Martin.  By 1920 Lepape was at the very top of his profession. He had completed a prolific decade of work, including illustrations for the houses of Worth, Lanvin, Paquin, Doucet, Beer among others, cover work for Harpers Bazaar and the first cover for Vogue Magazine (Oct.1916, English edition), numerous commissions for fur, perfume and other luxury goods producers, illustrations for theatre programs (particularly for the Ballets Russes), costume and set designs for Marcel L’Herbier and a series of posters for Galeries Lafayette.

Conde Nast invited Lepape to New York in 1926, further cementing a long and profitable relationship with Vogue as that publication took over Gazette du Bon Ton. He illustrated eight of the Vogue covers in 1927 plus covers for Vanity Fair, while continuing to expand his client list to include Hermes, Wanamaker’s Department Store and Femina Magazine, among others, and to further increase his visibility in the theatrical world.

 Etsy Listing #90914611

The reverse side of the page is an illustration by Mariette Lydis.  Mariette, Comtesse Govone, lived an extraordinary life of adventure.  She had a great artistic success in 30s Paris, starting with a solo show at the Galerie Bernheim Jeune, after which she became a member and a juror at the Salon d’Automne. Her work is in many major museums and collections worldwide.

 Etsy Listing #90914611

Enjoy!
Patty

Monday, December 26, 2011

Paper Doll Girls Latest News

It's been a long time since I've had time to blog, but my New Year's resolution is to start blogging again and sharing our vintage finds!

I've been in Paris since November 25 on a buying trip for the shop, and I'll be returning to Australia on January l with HUNDREDS (not kidding) of lovely vintage French fashion ads!  I can't wait to share them with my customers in our etsy shop, Paper Doll Girls.

Here's just one of the beautiful 1920's Art Deco front magazine covers of a woman in a gorgeous pink dress.  This is an exceptionally large magazine with a heavy embossed card cover which could be beautifully framed.  It will be listed in the shop the first week in January.  Stop by and have a look at all our news ads that I will be adding over the month of January. 

Apologies for the quality of the photo, but it had already been wrapped in plastic for shipment home.  I will scan it when I get home and the listing will do it justice!


We've just made a Facebook page for the shop, as well, Paper Doll Girls, so please stop by and LIKE us!

L'Illustration 1928

Patty

Sunday, May 15, 2011

Mellow Yellow

I'm trying to cheer myself up now that winter seems to have made an EARLY appearance here in Sydney.  I changed my featured items in the shopto bring in some sunshine. 

 Lanvin Satin & Velvet Evening Dress
Vogue UK
December 1951

Bourjois Beau Belle Perfume
Harper's Bazaar 
October 1949

Selincourt Mustard Yellow Wool Coat
Harper's Bazaar UK 
October 1947

  
 Neiman Marcus Dallas Shoes
Vogue USA
June 1, 1936

I especially love the fashion illustration by Eric.  He's caught the real essence of this beautiful satin and velvet evening dress, don't you think?

Saturday, May 7, 2011

Killer Shoes

Have a look at one of the ads I've just listed in the shop.  These gorgeous shoes were designed in Paris by Roger Vivier for Christian Dior.  Aren't they absolutely to die for??  I would so wear them today if I had a pair!

 Black Patent Leather High Heel Shoes
French Vogue
September 1961


Roger Vivier (1907–1998) was a French fashion designer who specialized in shoes. His best known creation was the Stiletto heel.

Vivier has been called the "Fragonard of the shoe" and his shoes "the Fabergé of Footwear" by numbers of critics. He designed extravagant richly-decorated shoes that he described as sculptures. He is credited with the design of the first stiletto heel in 1954. Stiletto heels, the very thin high heel, were certainly around in the late 19th century as numerous fetish drawings attest, but Vivier is known for reviving and developing this opulent style by using a thin rod of steel.

Ava Gardner, Gloria Guinness and The Beatles were all Vivier customers, and he designed the shoes for Queen Elizabeth II for her coronation in 1953.

Vivier designed shoes for Christian Dior from 1953 to 1963. In addition to the stiletto heel, he also experimented with other shapes including the comma. He used silk, pearls, beads, lace, appliqué and jewels to create unique decorations for his shoes.

In the 1960s Vivier also designed silk-satin knee boots outlined in jewels, and thigh-high evening boots in a black elastic knit with beads. His most iconic design, the Pilgrim pumps with silver buckles (worn by Catherine Deneuve in the film Belle de Jour) received international publicity and many imitations.
Vivier's shoes are on display at the Costume Institute of the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York, the Victoria and Albert Museum in London and the Musée du Costume et de la Mode at the Louvre.

Saturday, April 30, 2011

Seeing Spots

There are two things that never fail to make me feel happy and smiley--the color RED and POLKA DOTS.  Who couldn't help but feel uplifted by those two, especially when they're combined!
Jean Desses One Shoulder Evening Dress  
L'OFFICIEL DE LA COUTURE ET DE LA MODE DE PARIS 
March 1955 

Jean Dessès (6 August 1904 – 2 August 1970), was a world leading fashion designer in the 1940s, 1950s and 1960s. His designs reflected the influences of his travels, specializing in creating draped evening gowns in chiffon and mousseline, based on early Greek and Egyptian robes.

His work was influenced by his travels, creating draped evening gowns in chiffon, embroidered dresses, sheath dresses with tight jackets and flowing skirts. His fashion was very popular with European royalty and movie stars. Among his clientele were the Queen and royal princesses of Greece, the Duchess of Windsor, Madame Jean (Lilia) Ralli, the first Mrs. Aristotle Onassis and society hostess Elsa Maxwell. In 1962, he designed the wedding gown worn by Princess Sophia of Greece (later Queen Sofia of Spain) for her marriage to the future King Juan Carlos of Spain. Valentino worked with Desses for several years in the 1950s and gained much hands-on experience, as did Guy Laroche, who in the 1950s was Desses' assistant.
Jeanne Lanvin Castillo Silk Taffeta Cocktail Dress
L'OFFICIEL DE LA COUTURE ET DE LA MODE DE PARIS 
March 1955 

Jeanne-Marie Lanvin (January 1867, Paris – 6 July 1946, Paris) was a French fashion designer and the founder of the Lanvin fashion house.

One of the most influential designers of the 1920s and '30s, Jeanne Lanvin's skillful use of intricate trimmings, virtuoso embroideries and beaded decorations in clear, light, floral colors became a Lanvin trademark. When Lanvin died in 1946, ownership of the firm was naturally ceded to the designer's daughter, Marguerite di Pietro.
Adele Simpson Two Piece Copper Polka Dot Two-Piece Suit
Harpers Bazaar
April 1952

Adele Smithline Simpson was born in New York, USA, in 1903. She studied at the Pratt Institute of Design, in Brooklyn, New York. She was married to Herbert Sondheim. In her 20's, she was reputedly one of the highest paid designers in America. In 1927, she was appointed head designer at Ben Gershel's, a ready-to-wear company. She then moved to Mary Lee Fashions, where she designed under her own name. 

Subsequently she bought out this business in 1944, changing the name to Adele Simpson Inc. She designed jewellery for a short period in the 1950's which is now much sought after at vintage jewellery stores.  In 1964 the company made Givenchy's special collection for Bloomingdales Store in New York. Simpson designed practical clothes, outfits which could be worn in layers and discarded to reveal evening wear under day wear.
 
Her blouse and suit, dress and jacket or coat and suit ensembles were extremely popular, especially with the wives of US politicians. Mrs Eisenhower and Mrs Jimmy Carter, along with many other First Ladies, were among her clientele.
She was the first American designer to treat cotton as a serious fashion fabric, using it for day dresses as well as full-skirted evening gowns. In the 1950's, she produced a cotton Chemise Dress with belts attached, which could be tied at the front or back.  The dresses which Adele Simpson made are still treasured and snapped up when they appear on vintage sale.
 

Saturday, April 16, 2011

Mad Carpentier 1954 French Haute Couture Assymetrical Collar Cocktail Dress

Mad Carpentier Assymetrical Collar Cocktail Dress
L'Officiel de La Couture et de la Mode de Paris
October 1954
Etsy Listing #70544942

The firm's two partners—Mad Maltezos and Suzie Carpentier— banded together when Madeleine Vionnet, their former employer, closed in 1939.

The two women represented a continuation of Vionnet's bias cut and elegance in fashion combined with a discreet social model, always proper. Twins seized from a most inspired rib, two women balanced to equal one, and perseverance through the war years established an interesting mystique around Mad Carpentier. As Mary Brooks Picken and Dora Loues Miller, authors of Dressmakers of France: The Who, How, and Why of the French Couture (New York, 1956) passionately enthused, "When it was almost impossible to think of luxury, of the richness of colors, of the beauty of fabrics, in a city without joy and without light…these two talented women carried on."



Tuesday, April 12, 2011

Pierre Cardin Pale Pink Wool Coat with Matching Hat

Pierre Cardin
Pink Wool Coat with Matching Hat
L'Officiel de La Couture et de la Mode de Paris
 March 1961
Etsy Listing #69668574

Cardin was known for his avant garde style and his Space Age designs. He prefers geometric shapes and motifs, often ignoring the female form. He advanced into unisex  fashions, sometimes experimental, and not always practical. He introduced the "bubble dress" in 1954.
Cardin moved to Paris in 1945. There, he studied architecture and worked with Jeanne Paquin after the war. He worked with Elsa Schiaparelli until he became head of Christian Dior's tailleure atelier in 1947, but was denied work at Balenciaga.

Cardin founded his own house in 1950. His career was launched when he designed about 30 of the costumes for "the party of the century", a masquerade ball at Palazzo Labia in Venice on 3 September 1951, hosted by the palazzo's owner, Carlos de Beistegui. He began with haute couture in 1953.

Hubert de Givenchy White Cocktail Hat with Pink Ostrich Plume

Hubert de Givenchy 
White Cocktail Hat with Pink Ostrich Plume & Jewelled Brooch
L'Officiel de La Couture et de la Mode de Paris
 April 1965

Etsy Listing #69931454

Monday, April 11, 2011

Jacques Fath Cocktail Dress

Jacques Fath
Alpaca Wool Cocktail Dress
L'Officiel de La Couture et de la Mode de Paris
March 1955 

Etsy Listing #69872674

Fath was a popular and occasionally innovative designer known for dressing "the chic young Parisienne".  He utilized such materials as hemp sacking and sequins made of walnut and almond shells. His 1950 collection was called Lily, and its skirts were shaped to resemble flowers. For eveningwear, he advocated velvet gowns. During World War II, Fath was known for "wide fluttering skirts" which, The New York Times explained, "he conceived for the benefit of women forced to ride bicycles during gasoline rationing". His clients included Ava Gardner, Greta Garbo, and Rita Hayworth, who wore a Fath dress for her wedding to Prince Aly Khan.




Hubert de Givenchy Ball Gown

Hubert de Givenchy
Silk Moire Ballgown
L'Officiel de La Couture et de la Mode de Paris 
October 1954

Givenchy, the name itself evokes glamour, refined elegance, simplicity, and style. Givenchy's trademark flowing lines, use of embroidered and print fabrics, and bold colors make his work easily recognizable.He has dressed an impressive list of famous women: Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis, The Duchess of Windsor, Princess Caroline of Monaco, Greta Garbo, and his favorite muse, Audrey Hepburn. For 53 years, Hubert de Givenchy has epitomized quality, elegance, and lady-like fashion.




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