Madeleine de Rauch by Darani

I was lucky enough to find a copy of the French magazine, L'Officiel de la Couture et de la Mode de Paris, from 1949, which contains the very collectible ad illustrated by Darani.  The ad features a bright yellow wool coat and black and white wool windowpane checked trousers designed by Madeleine de Rauch, a Paris couturier, working from 1932 to 1973, who was known for her sporty day looks.

The ad is very collectible as it has been featured on page 161 of the exceptional reference book of fashion illustrators entitled, "100 Years of Fashion Illustration", which is an invaluable addition to any reference library.

 Paper Doll Girls Etsy Listing #90044120

The ad has a very modern look even though it is was done 63 years ago!  At this time, trousers were just becoming part of couture for weekend wear.  Hard to believe, isn't it, since women were them on a daily basis now?

Patty

Everything is just rosy!

I wanted to continue with the smiles and happiness I, hopefully, generated with my sunny yellow blog last night.  Today, everything is just rosy!

LOTUS peep toe high heels 

Harpers Bazaar UK

 March 1947

Etsy Listing # 72786281

Pauline Trigere Aubergine Wool Coat with Leopard Muff & Helmet Cap

Harpers Bazaar

October 1949

Etsy Listing # 72883147

 Nettie Rosenstein Dinner-at-Home Dress

Modelled by Jean Patchett

Harpers Bazaar

October 1949

Esty Listing #73168371 

I love the way this dress is labelled -- "a dinner at home dress".  I can't imagine what life would have been like if this was what you were expected to wear for dinner at home!  That's just a wee bit more formal than it is at OUR house.

In the 1920s American fashion business, imported fashions by named French couturiers were considered the best to be had. At this time Nettie Rosenstein's designs were sold by stores under their own labels, though purchasers were told that the dresses were in fact by her. Through word of mouth, Rosenstein earned name recognition and her own-name label became a valuable commodity. Her clothes were retailed around America, but only one store in each city was permitted to carry fashions bearing Rosenstein's label.  

In 1937, Rosenstein was described by Life Magazine as one of the most highly regarded American designers.  She was one of the first recipients of the Neiman Marcus Fashion Award on its launch in 1938. In 1940, Rosenstein clothing was sold out of 92 shops and department stores across the USA, at prices ranging from $98 to $500.  Whilst these prices were beyond the range of most consumers, Rosenstein's designs were so widely copied that she still influenced the average American woman's wardrobe.  One such design was the "little black dress" designed to go from day to evening with low-cut evening necklines combined with daywear silhouettes and materials.  Her designs also included printed dresses with gloves to match, and she was also known for her accessories and striking costume jewellery. She was also the designer responsible for First Lady Mamie Eisenhower's dress for the 1953 Inauguration Ball.

 Aubergine Satin Evening Coat with Fur Trimmed Hood & Fur Muff

Harpers Bazaar

December 1938

Esty Listing # 65234107

 Wolsey Pink Ban-Lon Nylon Cardigan

Harpers Bazaar UK

December 1958

Etsy Listing #65234107

Oh, so pretty in pink!  Are you smiling yet?

 

Pauline Trigere

Here are just a couple more of the ads I will start listing in our etsy shop tomorrow.  Check out the shop the next few days for 300+ new listings!

 Harper's Bazaar

October 1949

Pauline Trigere for Julliard

 Harper's Bazaar

October 1949

Pauline Trigere Coat

Pauline Trigère (1909–2002) was a French-born American fashion designer, known for her crisp, tailored cuts and innovative ideas.

The daughter of a tailor, Trigère was able to operate a sewing machine by age 10 and often assisted her dressmaker mother. Shortly after leaving school, Pauline was employed as a trainee cutter at Martial et Armand in the Place Vendôme, Paris. While there, she met American designer Adele Simpson, who told her about the wonders of the New York fashion world. In 1937, aged 25, she moved to New York where she first found work at Ben Gerschel and later became assistant designer at Hattie Carnegie.

In 1942, Trigère decided to open her own fashion house, which was managed by her brother Robert Trigère. Her first small collection of 12 dresses was taken to department store buyers all across the country and by 1945, Trigère was a respected New York label. She received her first Coty Award in 1952. In the 1950s she started to produce costume jewelry to accompany her outfits, like many other fashion houses at the time. Her clientele included many famous women such as the Duchess of Windsor, actress Claudette Colbert and singer Lena Horne. Trigère is also cited for designing Patricia Neal's sophisticated wardrobe in Breakfast at Tiffany's, although other sources credit Edith Head with Neal's wardrobe in the film.

Today, Trigère's vintage dresses and jewelry are greatly sought-after and have been worn recently by the likes of Winona Ryder.