Saturday, January 21, 2012

La Femme Chez Elle

Amongst the vintage fashion magazine ads that I brought back from Paris, I found some lovely illustrations by four well-known Art Deco illustrators of the 1930s.  

Perhaps the most iconic of these illustrators was Paul Iribe,
who was part of a Parisian, bohemian clique, a cosmopolitan mix of personalities from the world of the arts and elite society.  One notable member was the couturier, Coco Chanel.  Iribe’s involvement with Chanel was particularly intense. Chanel found Iribe’s provocative wit and professional drive matched her own. Theirs was a romantic liaison, and a bond of like souls. 

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The reverse side of this listing is an illustration by Andre Edouard Marty.  He was the quintessential Parisian artist: he was born in that city in 1882, died there in 1974, and through his long and productive 92 years he touched upon virtually every major art form with the exception of sculpture.   He was only one of four artists to contribute to every year of the elite pochoir fashion publication Gazette du Bon Ton (1912 to 1925).  In addition he was much sought after as an illustrator for Vogue, Harper’s Bazaar, Le Sourire, Fémina, Modes et Manières d’Aujord’hui and many other popular fashion and lifestyle publications.

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George Lapape was also the quintessential Parisian artist.  At age 20 Lepape had already formed strong liaisons with such notable artists as Georges Braque, Marie Laurencin, Bernard Boutet de Monval, Andre Marty and Charles Martin.  By 1920 Lepape was at the very top of his profession. He had completed a prolific decade of work, including illustrations for the houses of Worth, Lanvin, Paquin, Doucet, Beer among others, cover work for Harpers Bazaar and the first cover for Vogue Magazine (Oct.1916, English edition), numerous commissions for fur, perfume and other luxury goods producers, illustrations for theatre programs (particularly for the Ballets Russes), costume and set designs for Marcel L’Herbier and a series of posters for Galeries Lafayette.

Conde Nast invited Lepape to New York in 1926, further cementing a long and profitable relationship with Vogue as that publication took over Gazette du Bon Ton. He illustrated eight of the Vogue covers in 1927 plus covers for Vanity Fair, while continuing to expand his client list to include Hermes, Wanamaker’s Department Store and Femina Magazine, among others, and to further increase his visibility in the theatrical world.

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The reverse side of the page is an illustration by Mariette Lydis.  Mariette, Comtesse Govone, lived an extraordinary life of adventure.  She had a great artistic success in 30s Paris, starting with a solo show at the Galerie Bernheim Jeune, after which she became a member and a juror at the Salon d’Automne. Her work is in many major museums and collections worldwide.

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